11 June 2015

Sierra de Guadarrama: A trip to Javier's childhood summer home

The last week was long for us.  Tensions were high as we tried to finish some business before leaving. Each step forward was accompanied by the feeling of falling ten steps back. By the end of the week it was obvious that we were not going to get out of Spain anywhere near as soon as we would like.

The end of the week marked our five year anniversary.  Despite the day being rather crummy for us, we did our best to enjoy the evening.  We made reservations to eat at a nearby Lebanese restaurant and walked there just before sunset.  We enjoyed a delicious meal of uzzi - a baked pastry filled with lamb - and fire grilled chicken rubbed with spices.  After dinner we took the bus to the center of the city and walked around.  The night was warm and it was a good end to a bad day.


On Friday we received some good news, which immediately resulted in bad news.  Some paperwork we submitted to the Spanish government was completed and approved, but I needed to make an appointment for the final step.  The earliest possible time I could get an appointment was the 18th of June. Our departure date is getting set back even more.

The further our departure date gets set back, the less time we have to travel.  One of the biggest consequences of leaving later is a shortened time in the five country entente.  Our visa for those five countries - Ivory Coast, Burkina Faso, Togo, Benin, and Niger - is only valid from July 7 to September 4. We suspect it will take us about 45 days to get to Burkina Faso, and if we are leaving the 18th we will only have about a month in the five country zone.  This is still acceptable, but limits our time and puts more pressure on us.

With the stress of the week, we needed to get out of Madrid.  There were a couple options we considered: the Sierra de Gredos to the west of Madrid, or the Sierra de Guadarrama to the north.  We finally decided on Guadarrama, because then we could go and visit Javier's childhood summer home.

We left the city in the afternoon and headed north.  I planned a zig-zagging route through the southern part of the mountain range.  Our first stop was at a trailhead just outside of Colmenar Viejo.  I had originally thought this trailhead was open to vehicles from looking at the map, and I was hoping we could take the landy along the dirt road.  It was unfortunately not open to vehicles, but there was a Medievel bridge nearby that we visited.


The next stop on our route was a village called Manzanares el Real.  Above the town are the mountains, composed of beautiful granite walls and spires.  The town was lively.  A craft fair was set up in the center of town, and there was a Renaissance fair for children at the castle.






The castle was clearly made by Daleks.





After exploring the castle we ate some lunch in the landy and continued north through the mountains. We started climbing higher and passed through small mountain villages on our way to Bustarviejo.  When Javier was a child his family spent most weekends and most of the summer in this village to escape the heat of the city. It was many years since he had been to the village, and although there were many changes, he still knew his way around.

The fist place we visited was the house his family used to rent.  Little had changed.  There were even the same roses Javier used to trample while playing football in the yard.


We had a little wager going when we entered the town.  Javier has a story about learning to ride a bike, and he wanted to see if I could find the hill mentioned in the story.  My first guess was wrong, but my second guess was spot-on.  There was no way I could get it wrong after seeing the hill.

This is how the story goes...

Javier was beginning to get confident on his bike, but still was not very good with peddling or braking.  He and one of his sisters were out in the street, and he was practicing by using the gentle slope of the hill in front of the house.  He cruised down the village and made it all the way to the central square.


Having so much fun with his success, Javi continued across the central square to this hill.


 The hill has since been repaved and is less steep than before according to Javi.

He began to roll down the hill and lost control.  He neither had the skill to turn, nor the strength to pull the brakes and stop.  He went careening down the slope towards some concrete benches.


On the benches were two old women having a nice chat in the summer air.  They had no idea there was a crazy little boy flying towards them at high speed.  Javier began to scream and the old women - noticing the imminent calamity - scattered like squawking chickens.

With the women out of the way, Javi collided with the concrete benches and went flying over the handlebars and down the back side of the seats.  It is amazing he walked away with only broken glasses and a gash on his forehead requiring only two stitches.  The drop behind the concrete benches is anywhere between six and ten feet high (two and three meters).  As an adult I certainly would not want to fall over that ledge.


After walking around the village for an hour or so, we left to climb to the Puerto de Canencia (a pass). By the time we arrived to the top, the sun was past the horizon and it was getting dark.  We decided to park the car and spend the night on the pass.  It was a perfect spot: dark, quiet, and much cooler than in the valley below.

The next morning we woke up to beautiful flower covered slopes and a bicycle race.  We ate our breakfast and started slowly making our way down the other side of the pass.  The bikers were making their way up the pass in the opposite direction.  With each passing group we slowed to a crawl.  It's funny how even tired bikers riding up a pass will turn their heads to check out our awesome rig.




I love all the little lizards that are always scurrying around the rocks.


We made our way through the valley to Rascafria.  This area is very popular for weekend excursions. There are dozens of trails, the tallest mountain in the Guadarrama range (Peñalara), and the Monastery of Santa Maria de El Paular.

We parked at the monastery and walked into Las Presillas.  These are a series of natural pools enhanced with some low dams.  The whole area was packed with families enjoying the early summer heat and bathing in the pools.  We jumped into the water and went for a swim.  The water was frigid. Even in the heat of the day the water was too cold to spend much time in.



After a short lunch in the sun we began the 3.7 mile (6km) hike into the Cascada de Purgatorio.  The forest was beautiful.  Yuccas and juniper growing beneath a dense canopy of oaks.  The hike was smooth until the last couple kilometers, when it got rocky and rough to traverse.








Hiking out, we rushed to try and get to the monastery before they closed.  Unfortunately all our jogging was in vain, because they closed half an hour before we arrived at the gate.  There was only one chapel we were able to visit.


As the sun began to sink behind Peñalara, we drove up to the overlook.  The view of the valley was beautiful.  We drove back to Madrid through the pass and ski resort Navacerrada, and arrived home after dark.



28 May 2015

Visas Obtained: The Democratic Republic of Congo

We were not very hopeful about getting our visas for the DRC.  The requirements were many, and by the time we got everything we needed they had changed their policies so that the processing time was a month minimum.  With only three weeks at most before we were going to leave, we decided to take the risk and apply for our visas.

With our application we submitted:
  • Copy of our passports
  • 2 photos each
  • Proof of income and bank balance
  • Hotel reservation
  • Scans of our obtained visas (for exit requirement)
  • Map of our travel route (for exit requirement)
  • A signed statement explaining our plan to drive through (for exit requirement)
  • A letter asking for quick processing
  • 115€ each
We left our applications at the office on a Tuesday.  We had little hope of hearing back from the office any time soon, because all applications are sent to a central processing facility in Kinshasa, DRC.  We were happily surprised when we were called only 10 days later notifying us to come pick up our visas.

The Rig: Our Home and Transport

Buying the Rig

It became clear soon after viewing the third Santana that this particular vehicle would be our best option.  Due to a combination of factors - condition of the vehicle, its proximity to Madrid, and extra expenses to visit more vehicles - we decided to go ahead with the purchase before missing out on an opportunity

On April 28th, a Tuesday, we made plans to go and finalize the purchase of our vehicle.  We took the bus out to Guadalajara to meet up with Santiago, the Land-Rover's owner.  We arrived to the city and went to meet him outside of Trafico.


Over the next two hours we thoroughly discussed the use and maintenance of this magnificent machine.  He explained to us the daily care needed to keep the engine running smoothly, went over all of the internal dials and settings, and took us for a short drive to demonstrate some things.  We systematically covered everything we could before we finalized everything on paper.

About the Rig

This vehicle is a 1974, Series III Land-Rover Santana 109.  It has a 4 cylinder, 203 cubic inch Perkins diesel engine.  It has both low and high gears, four-wheel drive, and overdrive.  This vehicle is not made for speed, but it will power through most any situation we come across.


Driving this vehicle is like a delicate dance.  Every move must be made with perfect timing and speed.  Each gear change is made with smooth and gentle movements.  Acceleration is steady, and I never stress the engine.  The maximum speed we can reach is 80km/hour (50mph), but 60km/hour (37mph) is much more comfortable.  In the city this car is out of place.   Tight turns are impossible and roundabouts are taken slowly.  Don't even ask me to parallel park this thing.  NOT going to happen.

With the vehicle came many additional parts and accessories.  Santiago really did us good.  He included with the rig: 2 rear drive flanges (a weak point in Land-Rovers and a good part to have), a spare steering column, spare light bulbs, several alternator belts, brake shoes, a tow rope, three spare tires, five liters of oil, and a roof rack. 



All the parts he provided got us off on a good start with our preparations.  Before we go we will also buy more rear drive flanges, u-joints, fuel filters, oil filters, and fuses.

Preparing the Interior

We are going to live in this car, so it is important to make it comfortable.  After doing quite a lot of research, I came up with an idea of how I wanted to adapt the back of the Santana.  There are two main things to consider: storage space and livability.  We need to make sure there is enough space for tools, spare parts, gas cans, water, food, camping equipment, and our personal items, while still having a comfortable living space.

It's likely we will sleep most nights in the back of the Santana.  We will rarely set up the tent; it will be safer and easier to just sleep in the back.  Having experienced what it is like moving mountains of things to set up a bed in a car, we think it would be best to avoid the stress we experienced while driving through Europe.  The easier we make it to just lay down and sleep, the better.

Using a CAD I found online, I prepared some mockups of my ideas.  The main idea is to remove one of the bench seats and replaces it with storage.  Half of that storage has a closed top where we can put the stove and dish washing bucket.  The other half can store taller items.  On the floor of the rig, is a large box with a two layer lid.  The lid can be folded out to make our bed. 


After buying our Santana I realized I would need to add some additional storage space.  Because of all the spare parts we will need a little extra space to store them along with our food and personal items.  Adding a long box along the side opposite the seat would give ample space to store food and other items, while partially solving the issue of supporting the folded out bed base.


Ideas are one thing, and doing something in practice is another.  We took our plans to the hardware store so we could buy our wood.  The first thing we did was determine what kind of materials would work best to make the boxes.  We then had the wood cut for us, and we loaded the boards and hardware into the car.

To construct the boxes I first had to get all of our stuff out of the back of the rig.  (Not for the faint of heart...)


I then constructed the frames, and I began placing them in the back.




The skinny box was secured to the front of the big box.


The top of the kitchen storage was screwed down to the window sill.


Hinges were added to the big box, and the lid was attached.



With the cushions back in the car, everything was more or less set up.


The Living Space

To convert the seats into a bed, a second lid on the big box slides towards the back.  It is supported by the box to the side, the bench on the other side, and a board underneath.  The cushions are laid out on the board, we place a square foam pad on top, roll out our sleeping bags, and open up the mosquito net.

It is really quite comfortable.



To give ourselves privacy and keep out light when we are sleeping, I sewed some curtains to cover all the windows.  At a nearby second hand store I found this great little 1980's hand sewing machine that worked like a charm.



The curtains do a great job, and they can be tied back for visibility when I am driving.


In the kitchen box we keep our cooking utensils and food items that are used most frequently.  I even made a paper towel holder for easy access.



At first the idea was to place the spare parts in the skinny floor box.  Upon completion of the project, we determined it would be better to put things that we need to access (like food) in this box.

I filled up this box with non-perishables and basics like rice, pasta, flour, garbanzos, lentils, and canned food.


In the back we have plenty of stuff to help keep us self sufficient.  There is a folding table we can set up between the seats to eat off of.  We have a bucket to wash dishes and laundry in.  I even bought an old wooden washboard.  There is a 20L solar shower we can throw onto the roof of the car for those days we feel the need (and have enough water) to shower.  We have an air compressor for the tires - since we will need to decrease the pressure when driving through sand and mud, and re-inflate for roads.  There's a fire extinguisher in case of emergency.  We even got a little fridge to help keep things cool.

The fridge will run directly off of our solar panel, so we won't need to worry about killing our car battery.


To finally get the damned spare tires out of the back (it was not fun moving them when we had to sleep in the car in Avila) we mounted them onto the roof.  Strapped down tight, they are now out of the way.



To give ourselves added security when sleeping in the car, I added an extra lock to the inside of the back door.  There is no way to lock the rear door from inside.  I would need to lock Javi in, get into the front seat, lock the front door through an open window, and then close the window.  This way we have an easier way to lock ourselves in without going through the hassle of crawling to and from the front seats.


The only thing left to do is get the heck out of Europe!