Iona Parque Nacional
Iona National Park is 220km south of Namibe. It is possible to access Iona from Namibe, Lubango o Cahama. The easiest access is from Namibe. From Namibe, the first 63 kilometers are on an excellent paved road towards Tombua. However, before reaching Tombua, you need to take the turn off to the left, direction Iona. The dirt road that follows used to be in very bad condition, but it has been fixed in the last years and it is now possible to drive at medium speeds (80kms/h - 40kms/h). Entrance to the park is about 165km from Namibe (90kms from the turn off). Around 50kms further south from the entrance is Espineira. 30kms east of Espineira is Sede de Iona.
From Lubango or Cahama, you first get to Curoca (also named Oncocua). We did not do the road from Lubango (we had been told by Alvaro Baptista, the 'concesionario de Iona', it was in horrible condition, although we later heard from some locals in Curoca, it was in good condition). Instead we drove the road connecting Curoca with Cahama. In Cahama there are still ATMs, gas station and food shops. The first 60kms from Cahama to Curoca are on a good gravel road. The next 90kms to reach Curoca are on a very good dirt road. In Curoca it is possible to find a little car parts store as well as a little food shop.
Whether you come from Lubango or from Cahama, the stretch from Curoca to Iona is on a really bad dirt road. This road crosses many river beds. According to Alvaro Baptista, it would not be possible to cross these rivers in the rainy season (Feb-Apr). Even in the dry season, when the rivers are dry, the journey is quite a challenge, out of reach of most cars. The first 25km west of Curoca are still OK, but the next 75-100kms to Sede de Iona are really bad. On the other hand, the trip represents a fascinating and beautiful adventure through the land of the Himba people. The Himba people is the most primitive tribe we have met throughout our journey along the Atlantic African countries.
Iona National Park Entry Fee: 2000 Kuanzas for the vehicle and driver + 1500 Kuanzar per additional passenger in the car.
The park has very few visitors, so the rangers are very friendly and happy to see adventurous travellers. We only had two 2000 Kuanzas bills left. The rangers at the gate did not have any change. Needless to say, credit cards were not accepted. We explained we needed the change in order to be able to buy gas and food to get back to town. The rangers accepted to only take 2000 Kuanzas.
When we arrived at Espineira, we were told we would be charged for each day we stay in the park. We explained we did not have money left. We were therefore not able to take any guided tour. We were also told by the ranger in Espineira we were not allowed to drive our car in Iona. But that did not make any sense since we ended up driving about 100km across Iona. Probably he meant we were not suppossed to use our vehicle to go on a safari, searching for animals.
Whether you want to visit Iona park on your own or on a guided tour, it is highly advisable to contact Alvaro Baptista in Namibe, for the most accurate and reliable information.
Alvaro Baptista's office numbers are:
+244 923 452 748
+244 923 568 442
Alvaro Baptista's camp in Iona is 12 kilometers north of the park's Northern entrance, that is 155 kilometers coming from Namibe.
