09 July 2011

San Fermin!


 

Uno de Enero,
dos de Febrero,
tres de Marzo,
cuatro de Abril,
cinco de Mayo,
seis de Junio,
siete de Julio San Fermin.

A Pamplona hemos de ir,
con una media,
con una media,
a Pamplona hemos de ir
con una media y un calcetín


We rushed from Andalucia north to Pamplona to participate in the San Fermin festivities.  San Fermin, known by most people as "The Running of the Bulls", occurs every year from the 7th of July to the 14th of July.  Visitors to the city during these festivities either reserve their lodging far in advance, or sleep on the streets.  The fact is, there just aren't enough hotels and hostels for the enormous influx of people that come for this week long party.  Even if you do get a room chances are you won't be sleeping much anyway.

This festival is best known for the daily running of the bulls.  This happens each morning at 8 am and lasts only minutes.  People arrive and find their favored place along the route eager for the bulls to arrive.  One of the most dangerous places along the route is a 90 degree turn in the road which often causes the bulls to slide and fall.  It is in this location where bulls often get separated from the rest of the group.  A lone bull is much more dangerous than a bull with its herd.  These bulls feel more exposed and are more likely to single out a person and attack.  Bulls in the herd will continue running together to the end.  

There are of course general guidelines people are encouraged to follow for their own safety, but there really is no way for these to be enforced.  Once the bulls are let loose, it is pure chaos.  People also have their superstitions.  For one: old newspapers.  The real hardcore runners always have an old stinky rolled-up newspaper to help protect them from the bulls. Does it help?  I have no idea, but Javier was pretty convinced he needed a newspaper.

Yes, yes.  Javier ran with the bulls.  Actually, he ran twice!  Below is a video of one of the mornings he ran.  Can you find him?


 

San Fermin isn't just about the running of the bulls.  Originally, the running of the bulls was just a method to move the bulls from a corral to the bullfighting ring.  These days the running itself is very popular, but the end is still the bullfights.  The bullfights during San Fermin are rather unique.  Unlike most bullfights around the country, these are treated as a party.  At a bullfight, there are always two main ticket types.  One is for the shade, and one is for the sun.  If you choose the sun, you will pay less, but at these fights you will also get covered in wine.  The shaded seats are filled with people who are very quiet and act as people would at any bullfight.  The people in the sunny seats are drunk, singing, and throwing wine into the air.  Considering most people are wearing white, you can imagine how they might look after leaving the sunny seats at one of these bullfights.

Of course I could discuss the moral issues of all these activities, but I would rather not.

Now, the running of the bulls and the bullfights are fun and all, but my favorite part is actually quite juvenile: Gigantes y Cabezones!  This is a typical parade for children with "giants" and "big-heads".  The big heads tend to go around hitting the children with small maces (made of foam), and the giants usually put on some sort of dance.  I was first introduced to this type of parade while in Nicaragua, and have been in love with them ever since.